Elderberry in the Garden and the Kitchen (2024)

Elderberry in the Garden

Elderberry, genus Sambucus, has two commonly known species—the non-native Sambucus nigra and the native Sambucus canadensis. Both provide edible fruit and have compelling histories of folklore and uses. For the purposes of this article, we will mainly focus on the native Sambucus canadensis, as they are generally smaller and better fruit producers than their European counterparts.

The common name elderberry, or elder, is derived from an Angelo-Saxon word aeld meaning "to kindle" or "fire." It was named as such because the hollowed out stems of the elderberry were used to blow on kindling from a safe distance. The genus Sambucus is derived from the Greek sambuce, an ancient flute-like instrument.

Proof of its cultivation has been found at Stone Age sites in Italy and Switzerland, which speaks to its value. Documentation by the Greeks, Romans, and later cultures show that elderberry was an extremely beneficial plant used as food and medicine. It was one of the most prominent plants described by Hippocrates in the Materia Medica. Pliny the Elder devoted a whole chapter to the plant in On the Materials of Medicine.

In ancient times, it was considered a tree of healing and prosperity. In those two historic texts, all parts of the plant were mentioned as useful. However, we now know that the leaves, twigs, and roots are toxic when consumed. In Europe, elderberry was revered for its use in the home. It was also used to ward off evil. Elderberry was planted near the house as protection from attackers and harmful spirits. Care was taken when cutting down elderberry by saying a blessing lest a witch spring from its branches.

Use of elderberry in the Americas dates as far back as 1300-1000 BCE. All parts of the plant were used by indigenous peoples whether for food, medicine, or enjoyment. Since the wood of the elderberry can be hollowed, given its soft pith, it was used to make flute-like instruments and percussion sticks. It was also used to make a salve for cuts, abrasions, and burns. The elderflower was made into an infusion (tea) to treat fever and colic in babies. The berries were used to treat coughs and colds.

Elderberry is currently sold as a dietary supplement for colds and the flu according to the National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health (NCCIH). Sambucol, a standardized extract of Sambucus nigra, is a popular supplement. It can be found on a pharmacy shelf promoting healthy immune systems. A study from 2020 shows that elderberry might not be as effective at reducing flu symptoms as previous studies had suggested.

As research continues on whether elderberry is a beneficial supplement, the rewards of this valuable native plant can be found in your garden and your kitchen.

Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis, is a deciduous multi-stemmed shrub growing to a maximum height and width of 12 feet. Smooth gray bark turns bumpy with scab-like lenticels on older branches. Lenticels are areas of porous cells that allow for the exchange of gases between the plant and the surrounding atmosphere. The stems have a soft white pith that is easily hollowed out. The leaves are opposite and pinnately compound, with five to eleven1 leaflets. Each leaflet is elliptic or ovate with toothed margins, reaching up to seven inches in length. The leaves have a lacey appearance.

White clusters of flowers, called cymes, bloom in June through July, depending on cultivar and placement. Each cluster can reach a diameter of 10 inches. The individual five-petalled flowers are quite small, approximately 1/4 inch wide. As flowers fade, berry-like fruit form in clusters, known as drupes. The berries turn deep purple as they ripen. Fruit production is bountiful when elderberry is sited in a sunny location, though it tolerates shadier areas. It takes an elderberry a few years to become really productive. The first year or two, the recommendation is to remove flowers so that the plant’s energy is directed toward root and foliage establishment.

Elderberry tolerates wet to dry soil conditions with an ideal pH range of 6.8 to 7.2. It is easy to cultivate from nursery stock or from cuttings. Ensure spacing is 5 to 7 feet between plants, as elderberries have extensive, though relatively shallow, root systems. One ecological use for elderberry is in stabilizing areas that are prone to erosion. Elderberry can also filter runoff in that it tolerates wet soils, can sucker to form colonies, and has lots of roots.

Additional ecological benefits are for sustaining wildlife. Native bees rely on elderberry for nesting material. Pollinators are attracted to the nectar of the flowers. Mammals and songbirds imbibe on the nutritious fruit. Over 120 bird species eat its fruit and find shelter among its branches, including bluebirds, tanagers, catbirds, phoebes, robins, and cardinals.

Elderberries have become more popular in recent years as fruit-bearing plants. Thus, different cultivars can be found for the home garden. Growing more than one variety staggers bloom time and harvest. Planting at least two will increase cross-pollination and berry harvest. Elderberries are wind-pollinated and should be planted no more than 60 feet from each other. Note that elderberries are susceptible to some diseases and insect pests.


Photo credit: Mandy L. Smith

Elderberry in the Kitchen

Both the flowers and the ripe fruit of the elderberry are delightful in the kitchen. Elderflowers have a wonderful delicate sweet floral flavor. Commercially, elderflowers can be found as elderflower syrup and elderflower liqueur, such as the French produced St. Germain. Indeed, elderflowers are enjoyed throughout Europe. In Germany, elderflower syrup is Holenderblütensirup. Elderflower syrup can be added to seltzer water for a refreshing summer treat, poured over to saturate a cake, and enjoyed in yogurt or even in a co*cktail. Wonderful sorbets and flavored ice cream are also possibilities.

Elderflower syrup can easily be made at home by infusing the flowers in a simple sugar syrup with added lemon and citric acid (see recipe below). Always harvest the flowers first thing in the morning after the dew has dried and before the heat of the day warms them. Harvest pristine white and cream-colored fully opened flowerheads and avoid overly-ripe browned ones. Harvest the whole flowerhead by cutting the cyme where it meets the stem. Try and remove as many of the individual flower stems before infusing.

If there are berries available after having sacrificed the fruit for the flowers, there are many culinary uses for the fruit. Create elderberry crumbles, crisps, and pies - on their own or in combination with other summer fruits, such as peaches and plums. Elderberries are nutritious, containing vitamins A and C, potassium, folate, calcium, and iron, and are a good source of fiber.

Elderberries must not be consumed raw. Elderberry leaves, stems, and seeds contain a cyanogenic glycoside called sambunigrin. Never eat the leaves and try to remove as many as the stems of the berries as possible. Cooking the berries destroys the toxins in the seeds. Harvest ripe berry drupes first thing in the morning and process only the deep purple fully-ripe berries. (Never eat the poisonous red berries from the ornamental Sambucus racemosa cultivars!)

It is critical to understand that recent research concluded that elderberries technically fall into the category of low-acid foods for the process of preserving. Canning the fruit cannot be done safely in boiling water canners. No research has yet been completed on safely pressure canning elderberries. Therefore, you must not use traditional recipes.

Elderberries can be safely frozen and then thawed and cooked later. The cooked pulp can be dried and makes a good fruit leather, especially when combined with peaches.

Cooked elderberry products, such as fruit and juice, can be safely refrigerated for the short term or frozen for later use. Once frozen items are thawed, store them in the refrigerator and use within a few weeks.

Growing native elderberries is easy and this large shrub adds both beauty to the home landscape and usefulness to pollinators and wildlife. Following the research-based guidelines in the kitchen will allow you to safely create healthy and flavorful homemade elderflower and elderberry items to enjoy with family and friends.

Elderflower Syrup

2 cups water
2 cups granulated white sugar
2 large lemons
15 – 20 cymes of elderflower
1.5 tsp citric acid

  1. Clean preparation surfaces and all equipment well.
  2. Prepare the harvested elderflowers by shaking and removing stems, any insects and dirt. Do not rinse, as that will remove much of the flavor.
  3. Add the sugar and water into a medium to large pot. Stir and bring to a boil until dissolved. Simmer for 10 minutes.
  4. Add the zest and juice from one lemon and the citric acid to the sugar syrup.
  5. In a large container that has a cover, place the elderflowers and one thinly-sliced lemon.
  6. Pour the syrup onto the elderflowers. Cover, place in a cool area, and let the flavors infuse for one to three days.
  7. Pour the infused syrup through a colander lined with cheesecloth. Pour the clear syrup into a bottle and store in the refrigerator. Use within a few weeks or freeze for later.

Note: Elderflower syrup made from this recipe cannot be safely consumed after being stored at room temperature or canned.


Photo credit: Mandy L. Smith

Elderberry in the Garden and the Kitchen (2024)
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